Diagnosing and addressing these causes is crucial for resolving the problem. This problem could be caused by issues with fuel delivery, ignition system, or a malfunctioning sensor. Understanding The Causes Of Engine Starting IssuesĮngine starting issues can be frustrating, especially when the engine starts with starter fluid but won’t stay running. Can A Faulty Ignition System Cause An Engine To Start With Starter Fluid But Not Stay Running?.How Can I Troubleshoot My Engine If It Starts With Starter Fluid But Won't Stay Running?.What Are The Common Reasons For An Engine To Die After Starting With Starter Fluid?.Why Does My Engine Start With Starter Fluid, But Won't Stay Running?.Seeking Professional Help And Expert Advice.Preventive Measures To Maintain Engine Performance.Troubleshooting Engine Start-Up Problems.Understanding The Causes Of Engine Starting Issues.Someone with additional experience regarding electrical pulse for an HEI would provide better information regarding troubleshooting for an HEI system. But, I'd look to ensure the wires on my coil from distributor to coil, etc. This area is a tad outside my range of troubleshooting, since I employ contact points. (5) Ensure the HEI IGN coil is correctly installed and is in working condition. (4) Determine you're employing the correct IGN coil for the HEI The ignition wires I'm installing tomorrow are round wound, ceramic ends, 8.5mm and rated at 150 Ohms/foot (but that is a best case scenario) I believe normal daily driver ignition wires would suffice at ~1500 Ohms/ - 2000 Ohms/foot. You can determine Ohm from each wire based upon length. (3) Remove spark plug ignition wires and determine visually spark plug wires are not cracked, chaffed, broken along the length of the ignition wires, determine the ignition wires end sockets are not broken, corroded, etc. (2) Remove each spark plug and visualize for fouled plugs, cracked plugs, correct type of plug and correct gap of plug (1) Ensure you do in fact have 12V being delivered from the battery I hope you are moving in the correct direction but I have my suspicions the carburetor rebuild may not resolve your issue. If you require even more starter fluid to start the engine and it finally continues to run, you're masking an issue. If you can start the engine at one-half the normal auto ignition temperature of gasoline, but then the engine quits, your engine start temperature (plugs, coil, etc) is not optimal. But I'm leaning more towards the inability to achieve the required temperature necessary to start the engine. Either your spark plugs are inadequate (fouled, wrong type, etc.), the coil is of the wrong type, the ignition wires have far too much resistance, they're incorrect, or any of several other items related to the pulse of the ignition system (basically electrical). IMO, your issue resides in the inability to start the engine with a weakened electrical system. If that is the case, and adding to this fact you can clearly see gasoline being sprayed from the jets into the carburetor when the engine is in the off position, IMO - while rebuilding the carburetor is not such a bad idea (of its own merit), but I suspect the delivery of gasoline to your engine is not your issue. Once the engine starts - employing your new method of adding much more starting fluid - it appears the engine continues to run? Essentially, the engine starts at a temperature nearly one-half of the normal auto ignition temperature of normal gasoline. The auto ignition temperature of most starting fluid is ~350☏.Įmploying starting fluid you reduce the auto ignition temperature required to ignite the starting fluid e.g. The auto ignition temperature of normal octane gasoline (whether leaded or unleaded) is ~650☏ - 750☏. However, here is something to consider regarding starting fluid versus gasoline. I don't like using starting fluid unless essential. I do hope you're trending in the correct direction yet, I have a suggestion and somewhat of a dilemma in the direction you're moving to fix the issue.
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